Our First Andean Adventure

Hmmm....where to begin....it hasn´t even been a week since our last post from Nazca, but so much has happened that it seems much longer. Right now my typing fingers find themselves at a keyboard in bustling Cuzco (Cusco). Our through-the-night bus ride to Abancay last Friday went smoothly. Almost immediately after disembarking the bus in the morning and attempting to find transportation another 1.5 hours down the road to the small mountain town of Cachora, we realized that simply staying on the bus would have gotten us nearly there. Instead, we had to hire a taxi (the driver agreed to Natalie´s 30 soles ($10) barter, but after passing us off on another driver, claimed we had agreed to 80 soles! After a somewhat tense conversation between the two drivers, Natalie, and myself, we finally agreed to 65, as it was a long drive. It ended up being well worth the money, as the driver was very friendly and engaged both Natalie and I in Spanish coversation the entire 1.5 hour drive. Until then, I had merely had brief conversations with people in spanish, so this was surprisingly exhausting. He also took time to ask directions in Cachora and drop us off a little ways out of town, right at the trailhead.

The first day of the trek took us through patchwork farmland, skirting the rim of Apurimac canyon, passing peruvian men ranging from drunk guides with confetti in their hair to toothless smiling caballeros, wanting to shake hands and pass along the simple word Obama! (sometimes complete with thumbs up). Finally dropping 5000 ft down to the roaring muddy river, we made camp just before dark.

Day 2: Natalie and Sam find out just how unprepared they were for hiking at high elevation, combined with heavy packs, 5000 vertical feet, 85 degree heat in the shade, and trails made for mules to carry the load--not people. After 8 or 9 hours, 10 liters of water, appx 50-75 switchbacks, one vomit break, and innumerous rest/panting stops, they arrived just below the ruins of Choquequirao for what would be base camp for the next two nights.

Day 3: The Day of Rest. Thank goodness. An hour hike above base camp brought us into a different world, where all of the present inhabitants clearly did not belong. We were the only tourists on site while we were there. Juanni, a friendly interpretive guide (whose services we did not employ because nothing is free, you know) and several peruvian workers doing reconstruction on the site were the only other people there. We wandered through the ancient (actually only about 600 years old) stone structures, with various sized rooms, aquaducts and amazing staircases. Climbing innumerable steps above it all was a large playing field with an amazing veiw. After returning to camp for lunch, we hiked down about 500 meters to a massive terrace system, with, of course, more amazing staircases. The only building there, we later interpreted to be ¨house of the water fall,¨ aptly named for its own lovely veiw of a large waterfall we passed over on yesterday´s trail. Being the people that we are, the challenge for the day was not having enough to do, but we did our best to relax, enjoy sunshine, nature and the grand accomplishments of people who lived in a simpler time.

Day 4: A day of rest did us well, as we were able to make the hike down the canyon in less than half the time it took to get up, and continue onward, up another 2500 feet to our favorite camp of the trip thus far. Just below a farmer´s simple house, we had a small space of grass/ dirt to set up our tent with an incredilbe veiw of the river canyon. We got a beautiful light show as a storm lit up the clouds in the distant mountains above choquequiro, and a small cane hut supplied us with a shower and roof to cook under. Fresh sugar cane from the farmers was a special treat.

Day 5: Hiked out of the canyon, up lots more switchbacks, down a very long road with little shade, and into the town of Cachora. Sam made friends with a thirteen year-old local boy who showed him some of the best fruit pìcking of the town. After a short grocery trip for fresh veggies and eggs, we cooked dinner and slept in a bed, which just happened to be the least comfortable bed ever.

An early rise got us up to the main road by taxi, so we could flag a bus to Cusco. Both a bit overwhelmed by citylife, we´re not entirely sure what will come next. Maybe coffee. Probably.